chouchoot: (want a little drinkie)
when i arrived in asheville just before noon last week, i had done so via 1 bus and 1 train and 2 planes; i had slept quite comfortably on the floor of a women's handicapped bathroom stall between flights (a miscalculated 3+ hour layover in detroit, of all wretched cities), book-ended with immediate slumbers on both flights. asheville was rainy and grey, not much different from what i'm used to: i just missed both snow and blue skies by a matter of days.

the first night in asheville i spent with [livejournal.com profile] coffeefortwo and [livejournal.com profile] firthofforth, an honored request for home-made dinner (my sentimental favorite with them), along with my obvious attempt at bribing two small dogs. with one, NOLA, it was easy enough, and my subsequent days were spent with mad, frenzied licks and ploys for playing ball. radley is a harder sell, and the closest we came to friendship was independent understanding: i'll stand near you, but that doesn't mean i have to like you. fair enough.

i spent the days which followed exploring new-to-me parts of asheville: namely, waterfalls, and the warren wilson college campus. the real jewel of WWC on this said expedition was the (baaaaaaby) aaaanimals, on the campus farm. chickens and roosters, horses, cows, pigs and (most excitingly!) piglets. PIGGIES! we befriended an albino older pig with a phillip seymour hoffman complex, and noted the variance between new-newborn and less-newborn and piglet liters (?) as they varied in size, shape, and activity: wobbily legged first-time walkers; fat and sleep-happy nursers; newborns still under a heating lamp.

i got in a fair amount of beer-tasting for a non-beer-drinker. asheville stakes their claim to rival portland's beer scene/microbrews, so it was very much a when-in-rome sort of arrangement. i emerged from pubs with no real favorites (certainly nothing tastier than my Reliables) but having experienced decent-tasting pints that i did not have to struggle to finish. at jack in the wood every man stared [livejournal.com profile] albertamae and me down, seemingly just for entering. it is hard to not confuse this (half southern friendliness, half small town fascination) as an affront. the thirsty monk was my favorite watering hole, offering all belgian ales downstairs (all other beers upstairs). m. and i got caught in the rain heading home one evening, heavy storms unseen for the past 2 years on the west coast: thunder, lightning, saturating raindrops.

my first night staying with [livejournal.com profile] albertamae (and reuniting with my love, harrison) was a rough one: i played wildly with my favorite dog and paid for it for many hours thereafter. apparently, i am now just as allergic to certain dogs as i am with cats. this, my friends, is one of my worst truths. 4 hours, a shower, allergy meds and a freezing bedroom later, i wheezed and sneezed on until i finally was able to slumber; i still have not completely recovered from that attack, even tonight.

on the night preceding the ani show, we had dinner at the grey eagle, a restaurant and music venue, where a former big H coworker was on tour with a band, working as their Sound Guy. we ate during soundcheck, a loud and demonstrated practice of the same several songs: good in form, heavy on the upright bass and drums. i have no idea what genre was or why i didn't love it, but i did not hate it, and certainly can do no better myself.

the ani show i've covered. the orange peel as a venue is perfectly sized and located. inside hangs an epic metal ceiling fan--industrial sized, enough to create a breeze throughout the entire middle of the room--that is completely and utterly terrifying. yes, i'd like to be cool during shows, but no, i don't want it to go down like that. a massacre.

--

let me talk about the food, lest you think i've been starving my way through the land of the sky. i ate extraordinarily well every day i was in asheville. rich breakfasts at cafes, exceptional soul food sides at a predominantly BBQ joint, CAJUN FOOD (dear lord, crawfish pie, thank you), bacon brown sugar & maple ice cream, california-style burritos. i visited grocery stores and grazed through their Different items, starting a nasty raspberry-yogurt-covered-star-cookie addiction at $9/lb, which i'm currently snacking on. fried eggs and everything bagels. home-made dutch pancakes. regretfully, i ate because there were Exciting Food Options, not because i was hungry, and thus today i'm feeling bogged down and unhealthy. story of my life.

each night i played the nocturnal, though maintaining a "lacking need for sleep" whilst routinely over-sleeping each morning. the time change didn't help: well-intended early mornings of 9am felt like 5am, and needlesstosay, did not happen.

on the night before last, i prepared a meal for [livejournal.com profile] albertamae and [livejournal.com profile] firthofforth. nothing fancy, but something tasty ([livejournal.com profile] ph0enixinflight's ridiculously good spinach pesto recipe), and sat around drinking good wine, a.'s apple dessert topped with locally-made vanilla ice cream. last night, after downtown shenanigans, m. and i stayed up late giggling through youtube videos, (drunk history, lady gaga, lonely island) and i danced with her dog: front paws in my hands, ears back. w. h. harrison is not a fan of erasure, but i love her all the same.
chouchoot: (photographie)
i've been in asheville 2 hours and have already grinned madly in anticipation of a favorite brunette, had ciabatta french toast for brunch, walked through downtown asheville, and been aggressively hit on ("you are too cute to not be smiling every minute of every day."). it's quintessential portland december weather outside, grey and muddy but that warm-cold of interim layers: not quite coat, not quite jacket weather.

at firestorm cafe & books--which is a hodgepodge of a bunch of places i've visited, most reminiscent of a little vegan cafe in manchester--awaiting [livejournal.com profile] firthofforth. sickness is trumped by excitement.
chouchoot: (photographie)
chouchoot: (photographie)
chouchoot: (ferris wheel)
day four: tentative plans to go hiking at red rock canyon were thwarted, because vegas doesn't really want you to do anything other than stay on the strip (proof: access to public transit, brochures for anything other than helicopter rides, sheer inconvenience of a car rental/gas/driving/map/return). we ended up spending our last full day in vegas exploring the north side of the strip, which (though beginning to be developed) is by and large still in all it's circa-previous-decade glory. here there is an impressive amount of old kitschy neon signage, old motels, smaller and more creative architecture, and a general feeling of being off A1A in florida (sleepy beach towns that remain forever locked in the 80s). needlesstosay (and in contrast to everything i'd experienced in vegas previously), i kind of loved it. it's on the north side of the strip where circus circus and the sahara reside--my only two vivid memories of vegas from my childhood visit. the signage for both were amazing. inside of circus circus, i was pleased to see purple and black stripes everywhere, along side midway rides, a zoltar machine, trapeze nets, and more (this tells me everything i really need to know about my 11 year-old/current self). circus circus (and other north-side casinos) felt like traveling back in time to see vegas under dimmer lights, smokier airs, and with less exciting bells and whistles. while the slot machines had been changed out for newer, brighter, fancier models, the midway (second story) appeared--at minimum--10 years outdated. i have to be honest, i wish vegas was more like that girl in middle school wearing her big sister's hand-me-down overalls, the ones slightly too small and still 7 years out of fashion: i think i'd have been more forgiving.

at the back of circus circus was adventuredome, an indoor "theme park" with a couple big kid rides and a bunch of carnival-style smaller and kiddie rides. there was only one roller coaster, so the brunettes and i bought our tickets and were very pleased with the couple-looped decently-sized and very fun canyon runner (?). i could've stayed on that all afternoon. the other rides looked pretty tame, including a flume ride (not interested) and some loopy-spinny business i can no longer do (thanks, old age).

we walked further north along the strip through a decidedly sketchy area, then a desolate area, then another typical run-down/old vegas patch, finally ending up at stratosphere, our final destination. now stratosphere is a new(er) hotel, some 100+ stories ("tallest building west of the mississippi!") and kind of like an ugly version of seattle's space needle. and while the hotel is typical with it's lobby-level casino, it's hey-let's-rip-off-the-eiffel-tower-too interior, it's obnoxiously loud bar area, what is spectacular is that there are thrill rides at the top of the building. for a meager $XX.XX (c'mon, like the money even matters at this point), you can get admittance to the observation deck (a pretty stellar view of vegas, especially at night), as well as tickets for all 3 rides. i misunderstood from the cashier (thinking it was "any 3 rides" and not "every ride once") and ended up trashing the ticket to insanity (an aforementioned loopy-spinny ride hanging off the 109th floor), but rode both big shot (think doctor doom at universal studios on the 110th floor) and x-scream (a fake-start/launch/fall ride that i thought was supposed to be an actual coaster). both were actually pretty awesome, and definitely worth doing (if for nothing else, for the thrill and the view). i had a lot of adrenaline going after that, and had hoped to make it another mile north up las vegas blvd to photograph the fabulous las vegas sign, but was a little worried about doing so alone after midnight, so i went home with the brunettes instead.

our last night in vegas went out with more of the same, but was nice. i think at this point we were all more than ready to go home--not for lack of companionship, but certainly from lack of interest in what the city had to offer us. i have often had a theory that 3 days is the perfect amount of time for any city, and that after 3 days you either should either leave, or do something drastically different to shake things up. vegas proves this theory, but to be totally honest (aside from brunette lunch club time), i could've left after 24-hours and been content.

the trip sounds like a bust i'm sure, but it wasn't. i was really happy to be reunited with my girls, and while it's been almost 3 years since the last time we three hung out, it certainly didn't feel that long. it was a great way to ring in our 30th year(s) on the planet. that said, it was disappointing to have spent money and time in a city that was practically engineered for these kinds of trips, and not actually enjoy the city. put another way, i have even more disdain for the American City Experience, in that (generally speaking) we are a trashy and dirty and superficial and money/shiny-obsessed country lacking real culture and history. vegas is a city amidst a beautiful landscape that is wasted; it is a wasteland of a city center that has spread like the worst of STIs. i'm both horrified and embarrassed that it exists, that foreign travelers visit our top cities and think (inaccurately) "THIS is america!"

further, i now have all kinds of new respect and adoration for NYC, after all these years of ambivalence and under-appreciation.

see ya vegas, wouldn't wanna be ya.
chouchoot: (blue)
day three: the quintessential vegas experience (or as far as what i remember from my first visit in 1990) involves buffets. we knew we couldn't make a habit of it (we three brunettes are lovers of both food and things that are free). mirage hotel offered a brunch buffet that included unlimited bloody marys...and if nothing else, that sounded perfect (in theory). we had terrific service by an adorable older gentleman named court (whom i took a picture with later), but good service and decent food and alcohol that is free and unlimited do not a good idea make. after my fourth plate (i wish i was kidding) and third bloody mary things got uncomfortable, and remained so for many hours to follow. i literally had trouble walking back to our hotel, where (once in our room) i beached myself for a couple hours (and contemplated throwing up very seriously). it passed, i started feeling better, and went for a walk, securing tickets to LOVE (the beatles inspired cirque de soleil show), then gambling a little with [livejournal.com profile] albertamae while [livejournal.com profile] pwowsemaster hung out at the pool. at this point my money-spent-on-slots was up to about $19. a few more drinks, and then back to the mirage for LOVE... which was so amazingly incredibly impressive, words can't even describe it, so i won't really try. i've been a fan of all cirque performances i've seen, but this one was so moving and beautiful. the show opened with a stripped down (vocals-only) version of "because," (arguably one of my favorite beatles songs), and i was, 10 seconds into it, sobbing. throughout the show and the songs i found myself either transfixed or heart-heavy. i cried through most of the opening bars of the saddest of (lennon) beatle songs. the costumes, set design, choreography, and props were completely amazing ("story line" was more or less non-existent in comparison to other shows i've seen, but not a major complaint). the performers were amazing; i'm re-motivated to look into circus school again (trapeze/aerial acrobatics), which will hopefully start up this fall after a bike-crazy/healthy/active/yoga summer (mama doesn't have what it takes to support her weight on ropes just yet).



after LOVE i was kind of a mess, so i went back to the hotel to regroup, then joined [livejournal.com profile] albertamae and [livejournal.com profile] pwowsemaster outside to walk around and find something to do. it was a saturday night, and vegas was at it's worst: we hated everyone. highlight (lowlight?) of the night was [livejournal.com profile] pwowsemaster sitting on the concrete next to a trash can, smoking and drinking dewars out of a flask. we found a flyer called "when the fun stops"--about gambling addiction, but the brunette lunch club kind of agreed the fun had stopped in vegas after two nights (if not sooner). we were surrounded by basically the worst kinds of people--all tourists, male and female douchebags, women dressed for attention in clothes indistinguishable from whores, the freshly-21, the freshly-married, people covered in designer names and expensive jewelry, you name it. we walked around looking for something to do but everything was essentially the same--more slots and gambling, more overpriced food and drinks, more mass consumerism. we couldn't find anywhere that suited us, so we headed back into our hotel.

later, back at duck stamps slots, i briefly won the only money i might've won in vegas: from 92 cents i won $30something, then $50something, then lost it all. we called it a night.
chouchoot: (want a little drinkie)
day one: the vegas flight/airport told me everything i needed to know. not only was my flight filled with people just overjoyed to be Going To Vegas, there was actually applause when we landed (and not because of holy-god-turbulence). i waited for [livejournal.com profile] pwowsemaster's plane to land, after which we took a shuttle to our hotel (treasure island, or "ti" as it's now called as it oozes "hip" remarketing). the shuttle was fairly traumatizing, in part because an "embassador" for planet hollywood (a barbie of a woman) spent the entire ride being cheesy and trying to get people to take her tour(s) or buy some sort of discounted tickets ("do you know what nevada's state bird is? the crane!" oh hilarity.). when laura and i went to leave our shuttle and get our luggage, our driver asked for a tip (which i knew i didn't have, and justified seeing as the 15 minute ride was $6 x 16 of us), to which i replied "i'm sorry i don't have any cash" (i was down to big bills and coins) and then was told "bullshit." we walked away slowly while the driver called laura a bitch and used the f-bomb.

welcome to vegas.

but all was redeemed: [livejournal.com profile] albertamae was waiting for us outside, and we headed into our (completely awesome/nice/impressive) hotel, got situated, and went out looking for food.

now, i didn't have what i'd call high hopes for vegas, neither as a vegetarian nor a person spoiled by a notoriously foodie town. but i guess i figured it's a tourist city, so there'd have to be (other than the notorious buffets, something i'm only allowed once while i'm here) some ok eatins somewhere. we attempted to eat at bill's wild saloon's victorian room, but found the "chinese" menu and the standard american fare...sketchy. around the corner was battista's italian restaurant, which (upon first approach) seemed quirky and dive-y in a potentially good way--like a bucca di peppo from the 70s--so we gave it a shot. every meal came with free wine, so our table was dressed with a bottle of red, and a bottle of white...but that's pretty much where the magic ended. the food was canned italian style, the cheese tortellini came with meat marinara sauce (which we had to send back), the bread tasted like microwaved texas toast. even sadder was the fact each dinner was basically $23 a person. vegas, don't make me hate you (or is it too late already?)

after dinner we had pretty much embraced potential walgreens/7-11 meals of random produce + pbj sammiches + processed crap (because, really, if you're gonna eat processed crap anyway, might as well eat it for $4 vs. $23). we bought some liquor and snack essentials, headed back to our hotel, got free shots of some liqueur, walked around the strip and the mirage, hung out in the flamingo and a couple other hotels, walkedwalkedwalked.

we discovered that vegas is a dirty, dirty city. after walking all day our feet were black. disgusting.

day two: we three brunettes began our morning in our fancy schmancy hotel pool, then later off to some exploring of the strip, namely seeking H&M. walking southbound on the strip was disgusting--construction blowing dirt, debris, and nudie-girlie playing cards everywhere. H&M was small (shop-sized) and full of summer/80s colors, which was disappointing. we ate at our hotel and, having been in vegas for essentially 2 days, figured we'd give our hand at gambling. [livejournal.com profile] albertamae played her hand at texas hold 'em ("this one's for my mama"), i watched, eventually played (and lost) $3 on a marilyn monroe slot and a unicorn penny slot, during which times i got 3ish freeish drinks, and that was good (and the same price or cheaper than just drinking at a bar), but honestly, kind of boring. a girl can only be excited by shimmering unicorns and flashing lights and glittery gold tokens for so long (even me).

before i had even arrived, i was prepared to complain about the weather, but actually the weather was completely gorgeous and passable: 10% humidity on an 85 degree day was completely pleasant. there had been a breeze (or in some cases, gusts of 30 mph), and the sun wasn't oppressive. hilariously, desert/summer weather (usually one of my favorite things to complain about) was the thing i expected to dislike: the nice weather ended up being one of the few positive things i could say about vegas.
chouchoot: (Default)

(un)surprisingly, vegas is a horror. this is literally one of the worst cities i have ever visited. salvation comes in the form of a brunette from austin, a brunette from asheville, and alcohol.

chouchoot: (ferris wheel)
tomorrow i will be stepping off a plane to reunite with [livejournal.com profile] albertamae and [livejournal.com profile] pwowsemaster for the first time since 2006! ladies, ladies, ladies: i cannot wait.
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